Please read the following carefully:

How to commission a PORTRAIT from me:

After you contact me to discuss your order, please then write or print out the following information on a sheet of paper and send it along with your photo(s):

I need to know -

Before you make any portrait orders you must contact me first to discuss your portrait order. Once we have agreed apon an initial cost you can then mail ALL of the above personal information with your photo(s), along with a deposit check or money order for fifty percent(50%) of the total initial cost of the portrait.

If any order specifications change from what was originally agreed apon, I resolve the right to incur additional charges. I will certainly let you know what those costs may be.

Make all checks or money orders payable to Kathryn Smith.

I am not responsible for lost or damaged photos. Once I receive your photo(s) and a check for 50% of the total initial cost of the order, I will begin work on your order. Once you approve your portrait proof(s) I will then need to receive a check or money order from you for the rest of the total cost before I ship your final portrait to you. Standard portrait process and final delivery time is usually 4-6 weeks. I am flexible and can accommodate for rush orders. Up to a 50% additional charge of the total order may be incurred for rush orders but I will gladly discuss this with you when you contact me before you send payment and place your order. Massachusetts residents must add 5% tax to all orders. Remember that shipping of unframed art is free for orders within the continental U.S.!

Photo tips for your portraits

Since I create your portrait from the photograph you send, here are some tips to achieve the best photo for your portraits.
Nothing makes a greater difference in the final portrait than the quality of the photo(s) supplied. Professional photos are the best choice, but amateur photos can meet the criteria to create beautiful portraits.

  1. In sharp focus with a minimum head size, measured from top of head to bottom of chin, of at least 2".

  2. Subject should be properly lighted. If the photo is so dark that the distinction between pupil and iris is obscured, or if hair is so dark that we cannot tell how it is combed, then the portrait will be less satisfactory. Unfortunately, what can't be seen, can not just be made up.

  3. Photos which are too light or washed out by direct flash conditions are difficult to work with.

If you will be taking photographs for use in the creation of a fine art portrait, here are some suggestions for you or the photographer which will help assure a successful quality photo.

  1. ***Avoid direct flash photography*** Direct flash will wash natural shadows and cause loss of needed detail. Natural daylight is best..

  2. Side lighting gives the best results in helping to define features. If indoors, place subject with his side near a north window or other indirect lighting source, but do not aim the camera toward the light unless your camera has a backlight feature.

  3. If outdoors on a sunny day, placing the subject in full shade is most desirable (not under foliage which creates patterns on the subject). The photographer should take a position with the brightest light to his back or side.

  4. Fill up the viewfinder with the subject's face, neck and mid-chest area in order to meet the 2" required head size. Holding the camera for a vertical format will create a better composition.

  5. A flattering and NATURAL pose is a three-quarter view with the subject making eye contact with the camera lens. (Avoid straight-on poses which look like driver's license mug shots!)

  6. Take several shots. Try to achieve a pleasant expression not necessarily large smiles. Sharp focus is essential.

  7. Help the subject with the details of their dress and posture for desired feel. Take several shots of the subject in the same pose both with glasses on and without.

  8. Polaroid photos are MUCH less detailed and therefore harder to work with than 35mm photos in this process.